The 2008 Harvest is underway - with more twists, turns and surprises

If there is a Super Bowl in winemaking, it’s playing out now.  Nothing compares in importance to the timing of the grape harvest.

This year, the weather has thrown more challenges in the way of top winemakers.

First, the vineyard managers were hit with the driest Northern California Spring on record.  Irrigation could help to some degree but there’s no question that the lack of rainfall had an effect on the vines.

Then, many of the wine valleys were pummeled with thick, heavy smoke from the raging wild fires.  There were days on end when we could not see the lovely hills and mountains which rim the wine growing districts.

Adding to the challenge, Northern California has been beset by an unusual string of 100-plus degree heat.  That’s been at the vortex of the harvest in the last couple of weeks.

With such a long spell of high heat, sugar levels in the grape clusters began to rise dramatically.

For the small, ultra-boutique family winery (of which there are a few hundred here), the demand on the staff has been a near hardship.  One vintner we met over the weekend was hit with it all nearly at once.

With a small tour/tasting group this past Sunday walking into the winery with open vats of fermenting grapes everywhere, the aroma was unmistakable.

We always see a staggered harvest,” he told our tour guests.  “First you pick Pinot Noir, and Pinot Grigio.  Then you get a break, and soon after the Chardonnay is ready.  Then with another break, you can catch your breath and the Bordeaux varietals come in with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, ‘Cab” Franc and Malbec.”

“This year, four varietals hit us at once and the sugar levels were spiking!” he said.

Another niche winemaker from the Napa Valley told me yesterday that the challenge in his vineyard is to wait out the high heat and hope the grape ripens.

“When the sugar levels peak as they are with this heat, you’ll have a grape with a lot of sugar, but a very green seed inside,” he said.

“I’ve been out tasting daily, and the temptation is always there to pick now, but I don’t think the grapes are ready.”

“With a little patience, we’ll be just fine,” he said.

With any Super Bowl, it can be a grind yard by yard.  Here in Wine Country, this Harvest is being decided vine by vine.